“Man is not worried by real problems so much as by his imagined anxieties about real problems.”
Epictetus
I’ve had this hike on my list for quite some time. I was going to do it earlier in the season, but was concerned about the snow, so put it off until later in the summer. This trail begins at the Granite Canyon Trailhead off the Moose-Wilson Road, but due to road construction it turns out that the Granite Canyon Trailhead is closed all summer and fall this year. That means, I would have to start this trail from Teton Village instead which adds about 2 miles on top of an already-long hike. I continue to be surprised by how many hikes, trails, and trailheads are closed in the Park at various times.
I had a random Wednesday off from work, and the weather looked favorable, so I decided to hit this trail mid-week. The downside of that was that I didn’t have a partner to join me, so I would be going solo. I honestly didn’t really look too hard for a companion because I wanted the challenge and the experience of doing a long hike by myself.
I set out from Teton Village around 6:45 on a crisp cool morning and quickly started walking the Valley Trail north from JHMR. There was no one around, and the woods seemed eerily quiet. I was in my usual habit of making some noise, as I didn’t want to sneak up on any bears or moose, and was talking and singing to myself to pass the time. I did surprise a fox who ran about 15 yards in front of me, but I saw nothing else (including people) on this part of the trail.
I found the Granite Canyon trail about 2.7 miles after starting out, and turned west heading up the canyon. The elevation gain is fairly mellow and steady, so I was making good time. The only issue was this: the trail was pretty severely overgrown, and for much of it, I was walking through shoulder and head-high willow and underbrush. There was literally no one else out on the trail, and it was creepy. I was definitely uneasy. I was worried that I was going to run into a bear with cubs any second. I had my bear spray within easy reach, and continued to make noise by signing.
At this point, I started signing “Gin and Juice” – not the Snoop version, but the Gourds version which for some reason, I know pretty well. To keep my mind occupied I decided to write my own lyrics to the song, and came up with this:
With such dense vegetation in GTNP,
It’s kind of hard being a solo hiker like me.
But, somehow someway,
I keep stacking up miles nearly every single day.
May I kick a little something for the G’s?
Seeing a bear is a breeze.
You know it’s 6 in the morning and my heart is still thumping,
Cause there’s bears out here.
I got mooses in the river gettin’ it on,
And they ain’t leaving until winter comes.
So, what you want to do?
I got a holster full of bear spray and my homeboys do too.
So, lace up your boots and forget your cares,
But, (but what?). We don’t love them bears
So, we’re going for a hike today
G’s up, bears down
While you motherf****** hike to this
I’ll be rollin’ up the trail with my bear spray
Sippin’ on electrolytes, freaked out.
With my mind on the bears,
And the bears on my mind.
I’ll be rollin’ up the trail with my bear spray
Sippin’ on electrolytes, freaked out.
With my mind on the bears,
And the bears on my mind.
Coming up with those lyrics kept me entertained for a pretty long time, and before I knew it I had made it to the Open Canyon Trail junction. I had nice views of Rendezvous Peak as well as Cody Peak as I turned on that trail. This trail really looked like it hadn’t seen much activity at all, and several sections seemed as if no one had been on it for quite a while.
This section of the hike steadily climbs to Mount Hunt Divide and steepens right before reaching the divide. As I was about 13 miles in at this point, reaching the top was slow-going, but not too bad. I will say, I was a little disappointed at the views from the divide. It was beautiful, but I had expected long-range views of maybe Static Peak or Buck Mountain, but the views north were obstructed by closer mountains. I finally saw some other humans here – a group of three women who were on a three day backpacking trip. I had lunch on top of the divide, rested for a bit, and then headed down.
The trail from here was mostly downhill, and I cruised absentmindedly for a few miles until I startled something large in the woods just off the trail. It was a cow moose and her calf, and the cow was not happy about my presence. She and the calf moved away from me into the woods, but then she stopped and began snorting at me. She definitely let me know that she was pissed before continuing to move away. I had unholstered my bear spray, but luckily didn’t need it, and we parted ways as friends.
Open Canyon was lovely, and offered nice views of Jackson Hole, Phelps Lake, and the Gros Ventre Mountains in the distance. I eventually rejoined the Valley Trail and walked about four miles back to the Village. I only passed one other group of three hikers making the grand total of people I saw six. That’s not very many for a 20+ mile hike, and if you are looking for some solitude, these trails are a good place to find it.
During the early part of the hike, I was actually pretty worried and anxious about running into a bear. I think it’s normal and healthy to be cautious and aware, but the worry doesn’t really help. The vast majority of the things we worry about never actually come to pass. Further, most of the things that happen to us are out of our control anyway, so what’s the point of worrying about it. The fact is, I was prepared by having bear spray, I was aware of my surroundings, and I was appropriately addressing the risk by creating new lyrics to a rap classic. I decided that there was no need to be anxious. No need for worry. I just focused on my behavior and let whatever was going to happen, happen. I decided that I need to definitely do that more in my life in general. Good things, bad things, and every other “thing” in life is going to occur no matter how much anxiety or worry we allow ourselves. There’s no reason to suffer more than we have to, worrying about stuff that probably won’t happen anyway.
Mileage – 22 miles
Time – 8 hours, 24 minutes
Big animals – one fox, two moose
People – six
Beautiful views—really enjoyed outlook on worry. I’ve listened to people over my lifetime with ideas on worry and what a waste of time it is. Human nature is to worry about things we have no control over. I hit the “reset” button often trying to “not worry”—